Moccasins

Unlike those of the Kiowa, Comanche, or Apache, Cheyenne and Arapaho high top moccasins are characterized by a heavily beaded ankle panel, as seen on this pair. It gives an appearance of wearing both leggings and moccasins. Occasionally the foot portion of the high top is also fully beaded to match the ankle portion. They are generally worn during special occasions or celebrations.

These high heeled shoes are elaborately decorated with traditional Santee Sioux motifs. With the introduction of Europeans onto the continent, new materials, designs, and clothing were traded between two previously unknown people. Ultimately, this led to a cultural coalescence that is still progressing today.

This pair of moccasins has the traditional triangle step, or “mountain” motif around the sole with the “Morning Star” (a cross with triangle ends) design at the center under the tin cones. The use of the flag motif in Native American beadwork dates back to the early European arrival, as various tribes formed alliances and fought for different factions. By the late nineteenth century and early twentieth century, the American flag motif had all but replaced older war honor symbols on men’s and women’s clothing and other associated items. It is still employed as an important design element in homage to Native American veterans of foreign wars.

Gift of Edwin Beinecke, Jr.

The use of porcupine quills for adorning objects goes back thousands of years. Trade with Europeans introduced glass beads, which decorate the lower portion of these shoes. Pink commercial dye allowed the female artist to enhance the upper portion which is balanced against a Christian cross motif.

Gift of Harvey Bouto

This style of moccasins reflects the Delaware peoples deeply rooted Eastern Woodlands heritage. Ribbon work and elegant beaded designs are hallmarks of the Woodlands and Prairie Plains. The use of the maple leaf as a principal design motif is also common among the Caddo, Kiowa, and Rocky Boy Cree.

Tribal identification of an object is not always straight forward and can occasionally be difficult, if not impossible. It was not uncommon for artists to learn and apply techniques and applications from craftspeople outside their own tribe. Occasionally inter-tribal marriage would bring about unique blending of style and design.

Gift of Genevieve Belknapp

The use of gold and silver metal beads at prescribed locations on a design is characteristic of Kutchin and other tribes of the Sub-Arctic region. Metal beads can also be found in later nineteenth-century Plains and Plateau beadworks as well. Kutchin beadwork is invariably done in floral patterns. This pair of moccasins reflects the influence of commercial shoe patterns of the time.

Joe Grandee Collection

Diné (Navajo) moccasins are usually made by men who are responsible for tanning the hide for footwear. This pair is the most typical style of moccasins made by the Diné. They are characterized by the unique, thick rawhide sole that is molded around the foot. Each consists of one-piece of red-dyed leather that wraps around the ankle and buttons down the outside with silver buttons.

Gift of Mary Abbott Matejcek

The beadwork on this pair of woman’s moccasins shares similar characteristics to other Northern Plains floral patterns with simple bilateral symmetry. However, this slipper style of moccasin was often made for trade to be worn by women back East as a fashion statement.

Metal cones, sparse beading and long fringe are typical decorations on Kiowa and Comanche moccasins. Occasionally red, green, or yellow pigment color is used to highlight certain areas. The cones add a certain unique rhythm sound to the ceremonial music as the dancer stomps his or her feet to the beat of the drums.

Joe Grandee Collection

The material culture of the Ute reflects a degree of influence from other tribes in the Great Basin, Southwest and Great Plains. This includes the Western Shoshone, Paiute, Apache, Kiowa, Comanche, Arapaho, and Cheyenne.

Apache moccasins are characterized by minimal but elegant beadwork designs and hard soles that curl upward at the toe. Occasionally the curl is very pronounced. Sometimes round discs are included in the rawhide shape of the sole at the front, giving the boot a very distinct style.

The U-shaped motif appearing on these moccasins is a common representation of horses or horse tracks. The exact implication of this motif is unknown, but it frequently relates to either a specific number of horses owned by the wearer of the moccasins, or the number of horses stolen during a raid on an enemy’s camp.